Superstitious ? Me ?

After 2 years of preperations the starting date for The Great Outdoors Challenge 2013 was coming closer. The car had its MOT and was leaking oil, which was fixed. Parcels were send to Glen Nevis YH and Dalwhinnie Bunkhouse. According to Track&Trace the parcel to Glen Nevis YH arrived 4 days later on the 29th of April. The parcel to Dalwhinnie however had disappeared into a black hole in some depot in Inverness. The only thing I could do was to prepare another parcel and bring it to Dalwhinnie myself, prior to the Challenge.
Tuesday was a very warm day in The Netherlands, 24 C.. Before boarding police were checking cars with dogs, something I've never experienced before. After some delay the journey across the Northsea was very smooth although I didn't sleep well. I never do on such a trip.

Disembarking in Newcastle upon Tyne the next day was again delayed by stringent inspections from British customs. I received a text message from my wife saying she couldn't contact me. I tried to call home but a message from my provider said I didn't have enough credit left on my prepaid card. Ridiculous because I had raised my credit considerably before leaving home. Taking out and putting back in the battery solved that problem. I also switched on my Satmap 10 gps to let it know I was in the UK. It scared the hell out of me that it only showed the UK basemap. Again taking out and putting back in the batteries solved the problem and to my relieve I could use the 1:50k All of Britain map again. I followed the A1 north and a couple of minutes after passing the Scottish Border it started to rain. And it only stopped for 10 minutes in Dalwhinnie where I delivered my spare parcel and the sun was shining. Within 2 minutes after leaving Dalwhinnie and driving south on the A9 I was back in the downpour again. Around 6pm I collected my trainticket at Montrose Station for next day's journey to Mallaig before settling down at the South Links Holiday Park. I decided to keep the tent dry and payed for a night in a log cabine. I won't do that again. At three times the costs of pitching your tent you get no lighting in a cramped space, two small benches, a telly, central heating and not enough sleep. Traveling by train from Montrose to Glasgow Queen Steet Station was uneventfull. The Challenge hordes were gathering to continue their journey north to either Mallaig or Oban. I saw a lot of familiar (blog)faces.

Queen Street Station and...

...the gathering of the Clans.

The second half of the journey is far more interesting. You're entering the Highlands and the railway goes through some familiar and tremendous landscapes. The driver reduced speed so passengers could experience the Glenfinnan aquaduct intensely. In the sunshine because between Glasgow and Mallaig the sun was showing itself on a regular basis.

In Mallaig I'd booked a bed in the small but convenient Mallaig Backpackers Lodge. Outside I met Rolf Kerkhof Mogot, a fellow Dutchman, and Colin Tock, one of the famous vetters. We had diner together and with some other Challengers got lured into a quiz in the Clachain Inn. A second place and no prize as result. 

 

Mallaig harbour

Friday morning I signed out at the West Highland Hotel.  Despite being in the line of sight of a mast I couldn't get a signal on myphone. I still had it on roaming but I had to find a network manually. Vodafone didn't want me and O2 was too weak so T-Mobile it was. A last text message was sent home before venturing in the Rough Bounds of Knoydart where there is no reception at all. The battery of the Satmap gps had to be removed for the second time before being able to get a fixed position. This never happened at home.    

Knoydart Ferry at Mallaig Harbour

The sun was shining as the ferry docked at the quay. I opted for the 9.30 Knoydart Ferry instead of the 10.15 Bruce Watt Ferry because I needed every possible minute to accomplish my two planned Munros. Once on the boat clouds were pushing in and it started to rain. The cold wind made us move into the cabin. 40 minutes later we were dropped of at the pier of Inverie. In contrast with Challenge tradition I didn't visit the Old Forge, Britain's remotest pub on the mainland. Instead I turned left to start the climb on the track to Mam Uidhe. In the forest I was out of the wind and it felt warm and humid so I removed my Paramo jacket.    

Near the Mam Uidhe



First sight of Ladhar Bheinn

Once out of the forest and on the Mam Uidhe I can see Ladhar Bheinn, my first Munro of today, five kilometre as the crow flies. 2,5 km and 35 minutes after starting I arrived at the Folach turn-off. A pleasant track goes downhill into Gleann na Guiserein at an easy angle. One or two light showers


The Folach turn-off

Ladhar Bheinn looking fine

pass but there is no need to put on the jacket. Ladhar Bheinn is almost clear of clouds.
The ascent from Folach isn't the most interesting and commonly used as an easy descent route towards Inverie but the views from the ridge will be spectacular. Near the Folach footbridge a landrover is parked and beyond the old ruin an Akto has been pitched but there's no one around.
From the southeastern corner of the little forest it's a steady plod 2km northeast to reach the ridge near the little lochans. At first the angle of the grassy slope isn't steep but being my first hill in 3 years I still need to grasp my breath regularly. The inactivity caused by my lower backache a few weeks ago has apparantly lowered my degree of fitness considerably. Shortly after starting my ascent it starts to rain again, not hard but persistant. The slope gets significantly steeper and rockier for the last 500 meters beneath the ridge. A couple is coming down and the guy says the walking is good and not too windy. Although the cloudbase has lowered my direction is clear : 1,5 km SSE to reach the 1020m high summit of Ladhar Bheinn. To confirm this I check my Satmap. Shock and horror ! The device states it can't find it's internal memory ! Much to my releave I can still use the map itself which is on the SD-card. I've been studying my route for over 2 years so it's etched in my brain but it would be reassuring to see I'm still near the line on my map. The wind is strenghtening and the last 320m of ascent to reach the trigpoint is taking me longer than expected.


The Ladhar trigpoint

very close to the trigpoint

Suddenly its shape can be seen through the clouds, no more than 10m in front of me. A week ago this ridge was still snow-clad and impossible to walk without crampons and ice-axe and the snow is still alarmingly near. Today however it's the rain that's bothering me. Although not being in a downpour I can feel I'm getting wet inside my Paramo and my Goretex trousers. I'd washed them prior to the Challenge and reproofed them twice to be sure every inch would be rainproof. The same garment was 100% waterproof in a very wet and stormy Lairig Ghru 6 years ago. At 2.30pm  I reach the true summit at 1020m but don't linger near its cairn.

Ladhar Bheinn summit

 

I start my descend but what should have been an 'easy' walk down turns out to be much more difficult and slower than going up. The southeastern side of the hill is the usual way up and down for thousands of hillbaggers every year and the surface is very eroded and the rocks are polished by tens of thousands of boots. It's a nightmare to micro-navigate my way down and the steep scrambling bits, normally my favourite pastime, demand my full attention. Despite my care I slip several times.

The going is slow and by now I'm completely soaked. At this speed I won't be able to climb Luinne Bheinn and reach the River Carnach before 9pm. I'm getting an irrational feeling that 'something' doesn't want me here, too many 'incidents' have taken place and I feel I can't ignore these bad omens any longer. If I continue I'll be in danger and something really bad will happen to me.

I decide to go as far as the Mam Barrisdale and make my way down to Inverie. I recall Inverie having a bunkhouse where I would be able to book a bed and dry my cloths.

 

By now all the little knolls on the ridge feel like endless mountains whose summits disappear in the clouds. I'm releaved to reach the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail but the sight of the rough and steep and seemingly endless climb out of the bealach makes me feeling desparate.

The Mam Barrisdale is beyond my reach and I turn right at the bealach to go down Coire Torr an Asgaill and into Gleann na Guiserein. The terrain is tussocky and water is everywhere but I don't bother to look for dry spots. There aren't any and my leather boots are filled with water already so why bother ? Countless 'wee burns' have to be forded and one makes me fall over and I land on my side, half in the burn and half in the bog on the other side.

Gleann na Guiserein

Eventually I reach the LRT at Folach and I'm able to increase my walking speed. At 7pm I'm back in Inverie. 23km and 8,5hrs later and still at the same spot ! Now where is this bunkhouse ?

I walked passed the Old Forge and the last of the houses but saw no sign. After 500m I turned and walked back to Inverie. An old lady in a golfcart passed and when she returned I asked her for directions. I had to walk another 1km to the southeast for the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse.
A group was inside and said I had to look for the warden Anna in 'the house with the tractortires'.
She was very helpfull and said the bunkhouse was booked by a group and I had to ask them if I could stay for the night. I had seen a dryer in the bunkhouse and asked Anna permission to use it. She said that was okay. Back at the bunkhouse some members of the group didn't object sharing the bunkhouse with me but the leader of the group turned me down. I've never experienced such behaviour in the Highlands before and was amazed to say the least.
I went next door to the Knoydart Lodge B&B but they were fully booked also. My confidence in Highland hospitality was restored by Bob, the owner, who let this drowned backpacker inside and offered me tea immidiately and made some phonecalls to ask for availibility but everything was fully booked in Inverie. The Knoydart Foundation Ranger came in and said I could unofficially sleep in the logcabin on the beach. He also said there was also a peculiar woman with a trolley but I would get along with her just fine. I expressed my doubts about continuing my Challenge and Bob offered to bring me back to Mallaig with his own boat the next morning if I decided to stop. There's no ferryservice during the weekend : getting into Knoydart is easier than getting out.
Before going down to the beach I went back to the bunkhouse and stripped down to put all my wet cloths in the dryer. I wonder what the passing groupmembers where thinking of this halfnaked man in the hallway.
Unpacking my rucksack I discovered even my drybags had been letting in some water and, much more to my horror, my phone, which I had in a ziplockbag in the chestpocket of my Paramo, was wet.
Even my money was soaked. The only things that stayed perfectly dry were my Satmap, photocamera and print-outs of my routes. All had been put in Ortlieb mapcases.
45 minutes later I went to the logcabin and made myself  'comfortable' on one of the narrow benches. Some time later the 'trolleywoman', who turned out to be fellowchallenger Lindsay Jones, came in to prepare diner. She had postponed her start due to the bad weather.

By now I'd considered my options. Walking my lowlevel route to Sourlies and beyond seemed out of the question with even worse weather coming in and my phone out of order and not being able to contact Challenge Control on time. I would probably get soaked again without a chance to dry out.
I was still very strongly aware of nearby danger and the only thing I could think of was to go home as soon as possible. Lindsay tried to persuade me to continue but I had decided not to. She planned to go over to Barrisdale the next morning and when I asked her how she would cross burns with her trolley she replied she didn't know yet. I wished I had her optimism.
Lindsay retired to her tent and later that evening 6 young guys came in the logcabine to spend the night. Seven people sleeping in a 8 by 8 ft. logcabine makes you feel like sardines in a tin can. And I haven't mentioned the mice yet !

Saturdaymorning Bob ferried me back to Mallaig and by train I went to Fort William. I checked the timetable for my journey to Montrose the next day and discovered my watch had stopped 10 minutes earlier. Why ? I booked a bed at the Glen Nevis YH and asked for my parcel. It wasn't there.
I used the phone at the YH to contact the ferry company but of course they're not open in the weekend. I made a short call to Challenge Control saying I had withdrawn from the Challenge and last but not least an emotional phonecall home saying I would be returning home soon. On Sunday I returned to Montrose to call in at Challenge Control at the Park Hotel. John Manning was manning (pardon the pun) the desk and was busy answering incoming calls from Challengers. As I was there nr.7 and 8 reported their withdrawal and I learned that Lindsay J. was helicoptered out of the Mam Barrisdale the night before and another person was helicoptered out from Barrisdale. It must have been the Bermuda triangle.
Back at the Montrose campsite and my car I recharged my phone but sending one textmessage drained half the battery. Next morning I called the ferrycompany and got the answeringmachine saying "everybody was busy and I would be helped as soon as possible" (at 9am CET) . Then the music starts and my battery was drained. I plugged the phone into a socket and tried again. After 50 minutes someone at the ferrycompany felt sorry for me and answered the phone. I could get a ferry back to Holland the same day or a couple of days later. I left the campsite almost immidiately.
Driving past Edinburgh on the M9 my TomTom navigation indicated to stay on the righthandside lane for the A720 City Bypass. I've got an old TT and the situation has changed. I was driving towards Sterling and straight into an horrendous downpour. At the next junction I left the motorway and wanted to turn right at the end of the exit. Some cars passed in front of me coming from the right.
The road was clear, I pulled up and almost collided with a car coming from the right at high speed.
Something definitely wanted me out of Scotland, dead or alive.

Did I make the right decision ? I wasn't in immidiate danger and I've scrambled on knife-sharp ridges and stood on 2 inch wide ledges with a leathal drop beneath me in the past and I wasn't uncomfortable with that. Would something have happened to me if I pressed on ? Without the ability to go to a parallel universe I'll probably never know.

Final preparations

Tomorrow I'll be off to catch the ferry to Newcastle. Nervous ? Yes.
My backache is gone but I haven't carried a rucsac the last two weeks.
One parcel (Glen Nevis YH) has arrived, the other one (Dalwhinnie Bunkhouse) is still lost in space.
Looks like I'm going to have to buy some extra food and batteries and make a huge detour to deliver them myself prior to the Challenge. Thanks to the Royal Snail Mail.

The weather will be cool, wet and windy in the northwest and the Cairngorms are still extensively covered in snow. My route goes over the southern edge of the Cairngorms and the webcams near the Glenshee area (Cairnwell-Cairn Aosda-Glas Maol) don't show much snow. Perhaps I'll be lucky ?

Good luck to all Challengers and a safe crossing !

Challenge gear

Until now I've seen only two gearlists for this years Challenge. There have been years everybody was blogging about their gearlist complete with milligrams but lightweight gear is normal and accepted nowadays. Tarps, trailshoes, helium filled backpacks : you name it, they take it.
I do try to replace 'heavy' items with lighter alternatives but you won't find me sleeping underneath a tarp. A Dutch woman is running (!) LeJog at the moment and had a very unpleasant encounter with a toad..... crawling on her face in the middle of the night. The tarp was immidiately exchanged for an Akto.

The total weight of my rucsac, including 4 days food, will be just a little bit less than 13 kilograms (28.6 lbs) : the lightest I've ever had for a multiday backpacking trip.
I will not bore you with milligrams.

Theo's list :

North Face Lodestar 70 rucsac

Hilleberg Akto

Mamut Butterfly sleeping bag

NeoAir Xlite matras

inflatable pillow

Campinggaz Bluet micro stove

Campinggaz CV300

Pan

potcosy pot

potcosy pouch

Pocket knife

spork

walking poles

Satmap Active 10 gps incl ortlieb a6

6 AA batteries

4 AAA batteries

Geko 201 gps

Compass

Whistle

Small torch

headtorch (Xenos)

Samsung photocamera incl. ortlieb a6

ortlieb mapcase with a4 printouts

survival blanket

drinking bottle

bottleholder

p-zipbag

crocs

foldable sitmat

Karrimor drybag 2lt

Bever drybag 20 liter

Sea-to-summit drybag 20 liter

Sea-to-summit drybag 20 liter

Sea-to-summit drybag 2 liter

Eagle Creek chestpouch incl.plastic karabiners

snowgrips

Personal care

First aid kit

Tick remover

Paracetamol

Toothbrush

Toothpaste

Earplugs

Toiletpaper

Sportstape 3 m

Showergel (mini bottle)

Spare glasses with case

bandage

binbag

duct tape

Iron wire

Clothing etc.

j-cloth

flanel

4 pair of socks

2 Odlo underpants

Fleece hat

3 magic towels

North Face goretex trousers Paramo Alta Jacket Scarpa sl3 leather boots

1 synthetic longjohns

1 Icebreaker Skin 200 t-shirt 1 Icebreaker Skin 200 long sleeves 1 Icebreaker midlayer 3 handkerchiefs windstopper gloves 6 pair plastic gloves outdoordesign gaitors Food and drink

3xadventure food en 1xknorr dried pasta 16 mueslibars breakfast/lunch cereals  with white raisins and 70% chocola incl.ortlieb a4 15 teabags

Personal

Mobile phone ID, cards, drivers license, money, etc. Diary + pen I've sent two parcels with food and batteries to Fort William and Dalwhinnie. In 5 days Í'll be taking the ferry from IJmuiden to Newcastle. It's getting close now.

Disaster strikes....almost

Last saturday I was writing down Challenge phonenumbers at the dinertable. As I stood up I realised I couldn't get my back straight up. Moving was difficult and painfull. I've had this lower backache in the past and more severe also but never at such an inconvenient moment.
In this state I wouldn't even be able to walk one kilometre, let alone from westcoast to eastcoast through Scotland.
Normally it would go away with time but time is the one thing I didn't have. Only 17 days before taking the ferry to Newcastle !
Yesterday I went to the physiotherapist and much to my relief things are going a bit better. Some more massages and I'll be up and running, ahum, walking again.   

A bit nippy for the time of year

It's a bit nippy of late but no complaints from me. March 23, 1916 was really nippy with a max of 1.1 degrees Celsius.
It's the wind and lack of sunshine that makes you put on two sets of cloth. Last night the effect of windchill was near minus 20 C. and I still don't complain. Britain has much worse weather conditions at the moment. Snowdrifts 15ft high in Cumbria, cars buried in snow. Extreme windchill on Cairngorm, Scotland, of -26 C. with gusts up to 100 miles per hour (160km/u). Walking on ridges and high terrain would be impossible.

Watching several webcams the West Highlands don't seem to have much snow. At least no more than usual at this time of year.
47 days from now I'm going over Ladhar Bheinn and Luinne Bheinn.

Snow for the seventh time this winter. I want to speak to the manager !

While it rained for 24/24 hours a couple of days ago and we've seen the digital mercury hit 16 on the thermometer a few days before that it's now snowing again in the Netherlands. The north and the south have a considerable amount of snow again but so far where I live - the middle - the streets are still black. Windchill is minus 15 at night however.

Preparations for the Challenge are going according to plan except that I'll probably won't be able to find the time off to do a two day walk and do some (illegal) wildcamping at night.
Eight weeks from now I'll be leaving for Scotland. Why does that feel so close ? I get this odd feeling there's hardly enough time to do the things I want or must do. I know there is, it just doesn't feel that way.

I've made a potcosy and a bagcosy, that is a cosy for a pot and a cosy for 'boil-in-the-bag' type of food. I'll post some pictures soon.
Overall weight of my rucksack, including food for 4 days, will be 15 kg.   

TGO Challenge 2013 : planned route

I've published my route on this blog earlier, see this post, but didn't go in too much detail at the time. My route still had to be vetted so minor changes were still possible. The esteemed vetters Les and Issy Silkowski have had a look at my route and returned it with sensible comments and good tips.
Some repairs had to be made and finally my route was approved.

Day 1 : distance 19km and 1950m ascended
My journey will start with a boattrip from Mallaig to Inverie, followed by a nice walk to warm the muscles to Gleann na Guiserein. From there I'll ascend Ladhar Bheinn, one of Knoydart's gems. It has been on my wishlist for years, originally as a daytrip from Barrisdale.
The descent, which looks like a sort of screeslope, is made from point 849 into Coire a' Phuill. At Mam Barrisdale I might meet some Challengers going in the direction of Kinlochhourn or perhaps we'll climb Luinne Bheinn together. Luinne Bheinn is descended to the southeast and camp will be somewhere along the River Carnach.

Day 2 : 19km - 2300m
This day is a bit odd. A classic ridge walk and two crossings of glens, north-south instead of west-east. After crossing the River Carnach it's into and up Coire na Cuairtich to reach the ridge leading to Sgurr na Ciche. Another chance to meet Challengers coming up from Sourlies. After Sgurr na Ciche the ridge continues over Garbh Chioch Mor, Garbh Chioch Bheag and Sgurr nan Coireachan. Then it's due south to Glen Dessarry followed by an ascend of Meall nan Spardan and the Corbett Carn Mor. Before reaching Meall nan Eun I'll be taking a shortcut south to the bealach between Gleann an Obain Bhig and Glen Pean. This stretch is the crux of my whole route, it's steep and can be dangerous.
I've been searching the web for trip reports and pictures from the north side of these glens and found only one account, going up from the bealach.

If a save descent can't be made I'll have to follow the ridge west down to Loch Morar and go east through Gleann an Obain Bhig. A river crossing will then be neccesary and might prove impossible when in spate. See Two Routes' account from 2012.
If all goes well camp will be made near the illustrious named Lochan Dubh, the Black Loch. And black it is in this narrow and rough part of these glens. Might even meet some Challengers. It's really a social route you know.

Day 3 :  23km - 2550m
Another day containing Munros and crossing glens 'the wrong way'. There's a stalkers path up Sgurr nan Coireachan (yes, another SnC but a different one from yesterday) and a ridgewalk east leading to Sgurr Thuilm. Shortly before Meall an Fhir-eoin I'll go southeast and cross Gleann a' Chaorainn and the next, Gleann Camgharaidh, and via Gualann nan Osna up to Gulvain. Southeast to cross Gleann Fionlighe and move further southeast to Gleann Suileag. Perhaps I'll spend the night in Sulaig bothy or go upstream in the direction of Glen Loy before making camp. A lot of going up and down which explains the 2550m of height gain. Only the Mamores on day 5 will have more ascend.

Day 4 : 25km - 350m
After this leisurely start of my Challenge it's time for some relaxing. Through Glen Loy to the Great Glen, avoiding some roadwalking by going through the woods south of Glen Loy and joining the Great Glen Way near Torcastle cottages. The Allt Sheangain goes through a tunnel underneath the Caledonian Canal, a river going underneath a canal. Weird !
Shopping can be done at Fort William and this evening I'll have the luxury of a bed and shower at the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel.

Day 5 : 27km - 2900m
A cracker ! Another 'must do this one day' which I'd planned some years ago but had to abandon due to galeforce winds. Even the old pinetrees in front of the YH were having a hard time.
I'll be following the West Highland Way for a short while and go to the ancient fort of An Dun. From there my journey goes over Sgorr Chalum, Mullach nan Coirean, Stob Ban, Sgurr an Iubhair, Am Bodach, Stob Coire a' Chairn, Na Gruagaichean, Binnein Mor and Binnein Beag before making camp below Sgurr Eilde Beag. A tough day that needs not too much wind and snow, a gentle westerly breeze and some mild sunshine over the cloudless summits would do nicely.

Day 6 : 25km - 1350m
It's always good to have a bit of level walking before doing any serious climbing but not today. From the bealach the most easterly Munro of The Mamores, Sgurr Eilde Mor, is just a minor bump with a height difference of only 270m. Nothing compared to Ben Nevis but still a Munro. From the northeastern shoulder of Sgurr Eilde Mor it's cross country in a virtually straight line to Luibelt to cross the Abhainn Rath and follow an easy path downstream to Loch Treig. After crossing the railroad it's up Garbh-bheinn and staying high to reach Stob Coire Sgriodain. Camp will be made at Lochan Coire an Lochain. In calm, warm weather the place can be infested with midges, in that case I'll stay high.

Day 7 : 25km - 2000m
Another Munro, Chno Dearg, first thing in the morning again and southeast to River Ossian. From Loch Ghuillbinn ascend the plateau for Beinn Eibhinn, Aonach Beag and Geal-Charn and north to ford the Allt Cam. I'll turn west to reach the west end of Beinn a' Chlachair and follow this Munro east for 5km.  Wildcamp at Bealach Leamhain.

Day 8 : 23km - 750m
Straight up a Munro, Creag Pitridh, again (who planned this?), followed by another one, Geal Charn, but an easy day nevertheless. Down to Loch Pattack and along Loch Ericht to Dalwhinnie. Bunkhouse, bed, shower and a non-dehydrated dinner.

Day 9 : 33km - 1800m
If I feel really good I might bag the 4 Munros west of the A9 but the initial plan is to go up to the quarry and bag just 1 today, A' Bhuidheanach Bheag. From there east to Sronphadruig and then east from Loch an Duin, more or less following the border, if not the peat hags, to Feith Ghorm Ailleag. This stream will lead me to the foot of Beinn Bhreac for another wildcamp.

Day 10 : 33km - 1950 km
The next few days will be loooong days, especially when the ground is saturated but I have one spare day and can cut some days short.
First thing in the morning will be Beinn Bhreac, a Corbett for a change, followed by a lovely 'ridgewalk' over Carn an Fhidhleir, An Sgarsoch, Carn Bhac, Beinn Iutharn Mor and Mam nan Carn before descending to Loch nan Eun and making camp.

Day 11 : 35km - 2060m
This day the ridgewalk will be continued. An Socach, Carn a' Gheoidh, Carn Aosda, The Cairnwell, Glas Maol, Creag Leacach, back to Glas Maol, Cairn of Claise, Carn an Tuirc, Tom Buidhe and a wildcamp before or after Tolmount. 10 Munros in one day (11 if you count Glas Maol twice) ? Is this feasable ? There seems to be less peat hagsand bog if you stay high. We'll see.

Day 12 : 30km - 1200m
In 2007 I walked Jock's Road from Callater to Clova. Today I'll cross that road on my way to Lochnagar. There's a big chance of meeting fellow Challengers coming from Callater Lodge or Braemar who will all be following the 'trade route' to Tarfside. After Shielin of Mark I'll probably leave this 'traderoute' for my final Munro, Mount Keen. Scotland's most easterly Munro. Wildcamp in Glen Mark before Mount Keen.

Day 13 : 34km - 830m
From Mount Keen it's all downhill, passing Tarfside on my way to the coast. I'll just be popping in St.Drostan's for a snack before moving on to make camp somewhere down Glen Esk.

Day 14 : The final day ? If everything goes according to plan - I love it when a plan comes to work - yes. If not we'll have had some delay underway. Edzell, North Water Bridge, Marykirk, Hill of Morphie, St.Cyrus, the eastcoast and a last plod back up from the shoreline to the busstop.

A huge amount of 45 Munros if the weather is cooperative for 14/15 days. The last few years have seen difficult circumstances weatherwise and plans can or must be adjusted if necessary.

This is not just a Challenge or The Challenge. It will be full of challenges along the way.

Practise makes Perfect : a 30km walk

I had the very rare opportunity of walking for as much as I wanted yesterday. Snow had fallen two days before and it was below zero so I decided to stretch my goal for the day a little bit.
Het Voetstappenpad is a nice circular walk around Hilversum (The Netherlands) through heath, forests and a bit of Hilversum itself.
The lenght is 25km and parking north of the walk the total lenght of the walk would be 30km.

Het Gebed-zonder-End

The temperature was minus 5 degrees but luckily there was hardly any wind so there was no windchill. I was carrying my backpack stuffed with jeans and filled waterbottles to reach the weight of 14kg. I was wearing a North Face Gore-tex trouser over synthetic longjohns, an Icebreaker Merino baselayer and midlayer and my Paramo Alta jacket together with Scarpa SL3 boots and a cheapish pair of walking poles and a thin fleece hat and gloves.
I never felt cold at all and sometimes even had to open the jacket to cool down a bit.

Bussummerheide

I started at 9.30 at a leisurely speed. There were a lot of tracks of small deer and rabbits in the snow. The human footprint you can see in the picture is the waymark of the Voetenpad, originally established in 1938.
I had my SatMap Active10 gps with me to test the batteries in cold conditions. I used rechargeable batteries that weren't freshly charged but all bars were shown on screen. The path is very well waymarked but I thought it was best to use the gps anyway. I had it turned on all the time in energy-save mode and the batteries only ran flat 600m before reaching my car again. During The TGO Challenge I will only turn it on when needed so I think I can get at least 2 full days walking out of 3 normal AA-sized batteries.  

Westerheide

Despite the lack of sunshine I was enjoying myself. I kept saying to myself this was all f...king fantastic, having decided to do this only 12 hours ago. The company was great (there was nobody around) and the views were stunning.   

Charolais cows

I didn't meet any Highland Coos, instead I met some Charolais cows who thought I was bringing something nice to chew on. I tend to ignore cattle, and in exchange they ignore me, but this time they followed me for a while at very close range. I had my poles ready to scare them off but didn't get the change (?) to test the theory.  


Dr.Albert Schweizer forest road

Kilometre after kilometere passed and I kept feeling good which was a bit of a surprise to me because I had injured my right knee 15 days ago. Despite the terrain being difficult to walk on from time to time - months of rain had turned the paths into deep mud and tracks of mountainbikers and walkers had frozen solid to form a sort of boulderfield - I didn't experience any pain in my knee. 

Hilversum's Wasmeer viewpoint

After walking for three hours I took a lunchbreak of 15 minutes at the Hilversum's Wasmeer viewpoint, south of Hilversum. As I was packing to leave two elderly men entered the viewpoint. One was obviously being 'guided' by the other and the newbie remarked this was a nice flat area. I thought : "It better be otherwise the Laws of Physics don't apply around here. It's a lake for God's sake !", but I kept my mouth shut.

The Hoorneboeg

Another 2 hours 15 minutes of walking on 'boulderfields' started to take its toll and at 3 o'clock I had another 15 minutes break. Calves, knees, hips and shouldermuscles were making clear they'd had enough of it but I still had to walk another 6km.


Me, Halvar Icebeard, getting a bit knackered 

I simply put one foot in front of the other and ending in my neck-of-the-woods meant I could split the remaing km's in manageable pieces : the pond, the left-turn at the road, three oaklanes, the campsite.... .

Spanderswoud

Eventually I reached the car having walked 30km for which I needed 7 hours. Time moving was 5hrs35mins, average speed was 4,3km and moving average was 5,3km/hour.

Today I expected to have sore and stiff legs (I remember coming down the stairs at Glenbrittle YH after a long day in The Cuillin) but that didn't happen. I actually feel good.
Some more of these walks and I'll be ready for the Challenge in May.

Gear : Therm-A-Rest NeoAir Xlite Regular

A couple of days ago it was my birthday so I thought it was a good idea to buy me a present. I needed a replacement for my leaking Exped Down Air 7 mattress.
I visited BeverZwerfsport , a Dutch outdoorshop, to test the T-A-R NeoAir Xlite Regular. A very light mattress at 350 grams compared to the Exped at 900 grams. I've been happy with the warmth and comfort of the Exped 7 - I'm a sidesleeper - and thought I'd give the NeoAir Xlite a try in the shop.

My hips didn't touch the floor, even when deflated a bit for softness, but it's a bit 'noisy' when turning from one side to another. I don't mind. I'll be using earplugs.
Couldn't test the warmth but the R-value is stated as 3,5. I'll have to do some fieldresearch for that.
I left my cash at the shop and took the NeoAir home. I was happy.

Rule 1 : Vetters are always right, Rule 2 : ...

On the last day of last year, or the first day of the first week of this year if you prefer, I received an email from the Almighty Coordinator in Settle containing my Route Sheet and the comments of the honourable Vetters Les & Issy Silkowski. There was work to be done.
I'd made some unexplainable typo's, forgot some FWA's, planned a lot of looooong days and my route contained several dangerous spots, not to mention the sheer madness of planning 45 Munros.

I didn't call it "Rising the 45" for nothing , did I ?

Actually Les & Issy gave me some sound advice and some good tips and I know I'll have to improvise in May due to weather- and groundconditions (my physical condition will be topnotch).
I've made some re-calculations, improvements and added a FWA here and there and send it in this afternoon. Let's hope it gets the Vetters' approval this time
  

Nichts neues im Westen (no news from the West)

I've send in my route 44 days ago and haven't received a vetter's comment yet. I've contacted the Dog at HQ in Settle by email after the advised 21 days of silence but he said to be patient.
Of course I'm willing to be patient but after checking my mailbox multiple times every day for weeks on end I'm turning into a mental patient myself.
The only therapy I'm doing is to research anything there is to find about my route on the web.
I'm using Geograph and Google to find pictures and tripaccounts. Isn't that taking away the adventure once you're there, I here you say ? Perhaps, but it's also fun to do the research beforehand. And believe me if I say circumstances will be different in real life. People don't tend to make pictures in really bad weather and in zero visibility it's good to now a bit about the terrain that lays in front of you.
Pictures say a thousand words but taken from a different angle a seemingly steep ascent or grade I scramble can turn out to be an easy stroll  into the sky. And vice versa of course.
I also found a warning about midges near Lochan Coire an Lochain (Chno Dearg), better make camp on the ridge if there's no wind. I hate the little monsters but they like me very much.

I've booked a bed at the Mallaig Backpackers and Glen Nevis Youth Hostel but haven't received a reaction from the Dalwhinnie Bunkhouse so far. Traintickets Montrose-Mallaig, Mallaig ferry and leaving the car at the Montrose campsite (if possible) still have to be arranged.
And receiving the devastating comments from my vetter of course.

TGO Challenge 2013 : my route

For my first Challenge, in 2007, I had planned a high level route with lots of Munros. On day 1 I took an almost leathal fall while approaching The Saddle and ended up with a total of just 2 Munros, all bagged on day 1.

 

For 2013 I've again planned a high level route containing 45 Munros this time. Don't say it, I know I'm mad.  I'm aware of all difficulties that one can encounter during the Challenge : injurie, bad weather (like in 2011 and 2012), snow covering the summits, even meeting old (and new) Challenge friends can change ones plans.

Not to mention the vetter's comments ! I'm sure there'll be plenty of that.

 

"Rising the 45"

 

            

Day 1 : Inverie to River Carnach (camp)

Day 2 : River Carnach to Lochan Dubh-Glen Pean (camp)

Day 3 : Lochan Dubh to Glen Suileag (camp)

Day 4 : Glen Suileag to Glen Nevis (Youth Hostel)

 

Day 5 Glen Nevis - Mamores - near Sgurr Eilde Mor (camp)

Day 6 : near S.E.M. to near Chno Dearg (camp)

Day 7 : near Chno Dearg to near Coire Pitridh (camp)

Day 8 : near Coire Piridh to Dalwhinnie (bunkhouse)

 

Day 9 : Dalwhinnie to near Beinn Bhreac (camp)

Day 10 : near Beinn Bhreac to Loch nan Eun (camp)

Day 11 : Loch nan Eun to near Tolmount (camp) 

 

Day 12 : Tolmount - Lochnagar - Glen Mark (camp)

Day 13 : Glen Mark to Glen Esk (camp)

Day 14 : Glen Esk to St.Cyrus (campsite) 

 

Are you still there ? Did someone faint ? No worries, mate ! The weather will be superb so I won't be needing all those Foul Weather Alternatives I made in advance.

I'll have one spare day that I'll probably need. Not for resting but for being behind schedule so I've booked my Challenge dinner for the friday. I'll will try to finish on Thursday though.

I'll be the bearded, fit looking, tanned guy at the bar. 

TGO Challenge 2013 : before you know it...

This week I received good news from the honourable Mr.Manning from Settle. I was lucky in the draw for the TGO Challenge crossing of Scotland in May 2013. I also got permission from SWHTBO, she's lovely.
Yesterday I submitted my route : "Rising the 45", starting in Mallaig and finishing in St.Cyrus.

Today I started my Challenge training. Apart from Chris Highcock's 'Hillfit' and the indoor hometrainer I've got to get the legs used to walking distances again and the back to carrying heavy rucksacks.
With the dogs I covered 12,5km today in just over 2 hours with a staggering 25m of ascent. Yep, it's hilly over here.

I'll keep you informed about my progress and the vetter's comments on my route.

TGO Challenge 2007 day 11 Clova - Tarfside

Another episode of my TGO Challenge crossing of Scotland from westcoast to eastcoast in 2007.
Like the previous episodes it's a video from the Anquet 3D flythrough.

 

Just one and a half day to go now.

 

Received an email from Fotopic, the previous host of my pictures, that they're not back in business but it's possible to download the pictures I've uploaded in the past. I'll just do that.



TGO Challenge 2007 day 10 : Braemar - Clova

Another stage of my TGO Challenge crossing from 2007. A video taken from Anquet 3D flythrough.

 

 

The application form for the 2013 crossing has been sent so fingers crossed for the draw in November. The route is ready : grade VS (Very Severe).

TGO Challenge 2007 day 9 : Derry Lodge - Braemar

I know, I know. 2007 is 5 years ago. I'd to rewrite my account after the previous host stopped hosting and republished that account earlier this year. You can read it at theooutdoors.
It thought it would be nice to create a 3D-fly-through using the Anquet OS maps. Problem is I'm a very busy man and it's a timeconsuming project so you'll have to be patient to be able to read the last day. I'll get there in the end.

Theooutdoors.nl

I used to have a photogallery at Fotopic.net but they stopped their activities a while ago. I decided to create a website with pictures and stories of my wanderings in the UK and Holland.
Time is a precious thing and my website is slowly being filled with pictures and tripreports.
Sofar the TGO Challenge 2007, 4 consecutive years of West Highland Way, 2 visits to Skye, An Teallach, South Harris and a visit to the Lakedistrict have been completed. I'm working at a second visit to the Lakedistrict at the moment.

More is coming up - I'm not even halfway methinks - but you've got to be patient.

Here's the link : theooutdoors.nl , I do hope you'll like the stories and pictures.

New website : theooutdoors.nl

In the past I've had my pictures hosted by Fotopic.net but they went out of business. Hundreds of pictures of Scotland, Lake district and The Netherlands couldn't be viewed anymore.
Also my TGO Challenge 2007 story was lost. Luckily I still had it on an external hard disk so I was able to rewrite it and put it on a new personal website : www.theooutdoors.nl .

My Challenge story has now been written but having visited Scotland and the ELD since 1995 there's a gigantic task to be done. New chapters will be added in the future but don't hold your breath.
Just have a look at my website now and then.

TGO Challenge 2007 day 7 : Kingussie-Rothiemurchus Forest

Pffff. Day 7 of my TGO Challenge is now online. It's easier to walk then to publish.

Phil at Doodlecat has asked me to republish the written account of my 2007 crossing. As you'll probably know the company that owns Fotopic has stopped their service and my story and all my Highlands and Islands pictures along with pictures of the ELD are no longer available online. I'm currently trying to locate my story on disfunctional computers. Once located I'll put it all back on t'internet using a new personal website. You'll just have to wait a little bit longer for that.

TGO Challenge day 6 : Laggan - Kingussie

I know.
Some people have already written down and published their account of this year's Challenge. I've published my 2007 Challenge long ago (which is no longer available because someone pulled the plug at Fotopic.net) but now I'm rewriting my story as an anquet video.
Main problem is time. There's only 24 hours in a day and I've got so much to do.
I can't say : "Next week day 7 will be ready". You'll just have to check in now and then.
In the meanwhile  day 6 for anyone who's interested :